The lighter side of Lyon: blending old and new, this foodies’ paradise doesn’t have to cost a fortune

France’s gastronomic capital has a more casual side — from flea markets and funicular rides to friendly bouchons and bistros

The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière in Lyon. Photo: Getty Images

Suzanne Campbell

I push open a graffitied door and peer into a dark narrow hallway. “This can’t be a restaurant,” I exclaim to a travelling companion as terrified as I am.

We wanted alternatives to the elite restaurants in Lyon, but this feels like a step too far. Continuing up the stairs, I open a wooden door into another world: a beautiful, high-ceilinged room overlooking Place des Terreaux. A warm welcome and glasses of a cool white Rhone are delivered to our window table by chef and restaurant owner, Guillaume Mallet. We relax and tuck into one of the best value and fun meals of our lives (don’t miss the Coquilles St Jacques, a scallop with creamy sauce and Gruyere cheese) — a three-course lunch costs €29.