The Glass Curtain review: ‘Cashel Blue in my martini and jambons for starters – this buzzy Cork spot is pure class’

Our critic is impressed by Brian Murray’s elevated and flavoursome dishes on a trip to the rebel county

Brian Murray’s The Glass Curtain in Cork offers an a la carte and tasting menu

Katy McGuinness

Fun fact of the day: the Swiss roll produced by the old Thompson’s Bakery in Cork city was once so popular that its dedicated factory produced a mind-boggling mile of the stuff a day. Established in 1826, Thompson’s closed in the late 1980s, and its iconic building on MacCurtain Street now houses a hotel and a number of other businesses, one being Brian Murray’s The Glass Curtain, which takes its name from a distinctive 20th-century addition to the 19th-century original.

Murray, a Cork native who worked abroad in Dubai and San Francisco, and also as a private chef on fancy yachts (bet he has a few Below Deck stories), says he had no clue what he was doing when he moved back home. “It was a bit of a shock to the system,” he says, “I’d never run a restaurant before.”